(Fromage de Tête "Gilles Verot" at Bar Boulud; Photo: Eric Laignel)

Eating terrine is a good excuse to enjoy a surprising amount of different meat in one bite. At its best, terrine is better than the sum of its parts. You can learn why from a master in the new cookbook Terrine, by Stéphane Reynaud, a French chef and author. Reynaud has the ideal pedigree -- he comes from a family of butchers and he grew up eating terrine everyday. His recipes are simple enough -- the most difficult part of the process may be asking your butcher for two pig's snouts for the pig's head pâté. If you prefer food with less of a flesh-like color, Reynaud also includes vegetable and dessert terrines. All you need is a ceramic dish -- or even a preserving jar -- and a dash of fearlessness.

For those not inclined to sink their own hands into chicken livers, try Bar Boulud, a standout addition to the Daniel empire and supreme terrine destination. It may be located across from Lincoln Center in New York City, but the restaurant's soul is all Southern France, home of Daniel himself and the birthplace of terrine. You can make a meal of the charcuterie plate, which, on a recent visit, offered different terrines containing everything from rabbit to guinea hen to veal to braised beef cheeks. The Pâté Grand-Mere (with chicken livers, pork and cognac) looks unremarkable and like every pâté you'd had before; the difference, however, is that probably it's better than any one you've ever tasted.

All this is courtesy of the charcutier chef, Sylvain Gasdon. The terrines are laid out in a glass case for your inspection, and once they're paired with good bread, a few cornichons and a hearty glass of Rhone you're in business. You may want to save room for a lighter than light Croque Monsieur and a winning Gateau Basque. It's peasant food taken to the level of high art. When you finally make it outside, you might have to walk a few blocks before you know what hit you. --DAVID COGGINS

(Dégustation de Charcuterie from Bar Boulud; Photo: Eric Laignel)

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