With the growing allegiance to head-to-tail eating -- think of the transatlantic cult of London's chef Fergus Henderson -- it was perhaps only a matter of time before a New York restaurant made its way to the end of the swine. Yet it's still a surprise to come across the nine-course tasting menu (graciously priced at $40) at Hakata Tonton, a tiny restaurant in the West Village, whose principal ingredient is tonsoku, that's to say pig's feet.

If you're feeling bold, chef Himi Okajima's simple grilled tonsoku can't hide anywhere on the plate.  It's a bracing combination of crispy skin, rich pork, and, there's no other way to say it, rather gelatinous extras.  Oh, and Okajima doesn't feel compelled to cut off the toenail, that's there too. More timid souls can opt for the fried rice, which is airy and cuts the intensity of the tonsoku.  This is not food for the faint of heart; on a recent night, a couple perused the menu -- the woman was an avowed vegetarian -- and beat a quick retreat.  Hakata Tonton certainly has its rewards, but, as a friend said, "It is a particular taste." The easily frightened need not apply. --DAVID COGGINS

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