I was enjoying a fine three-course dinner at the Italian restaurant Fiamma a couple weeks ago (the New York Times just gave it three stars) when I mentioned to the sommelier that I had to go to Vegas that weekend. I wasn't complaining, since I actually like Vegas, just explaining that I'd never had a really good meal there. She told me there was another Fiamma there, which was welcome news, but that one of her Vegas places was Lotus of Siam, a tiny place rumored to draw the likes of Anthony Bourdain and David Burke when they're in town tending to their mega-restaurants entombed within the casinos.

Lotus of Siam is not only off the strip (at 953 E. Sahara Ave., which is about a 10 minute cab ride), it's in a strip mall flanked by Korean BBQ joints and even a massage parlor. It is Vegas, after all. Inside, the walls are lined with autographed photos of D-list celebs--Pat Sajak, John Ratzenberger, Ronnie Fabre (?)--enjoying the fare. This is not a fancy place. There are chintzy chandeliers and a stainless steel buffet table in the center of the dining room, and a few Asian screen blinds for good measure.

Drunken Noodles Sea bass

I went on a Friday night and it was filled with locals and a very friendly wait staff. When I ordered the fried wantons, my waitress, a sweet older woman, corrected me and pointed to others. "No, the fried chicken dumplings is good, this is good..."

She was right. The bacon wrapped prawns were incredible. The Thai ice tea is so rich it looked like a root beer float. The entrees were very generous, and the northern Thai house specials were excellent--rich intense flavors, no excess grease, and spicy punches that linger seductively. It's the best Thai food I've ever had, and I'd finally found a bit of epicurean luck in Vegas. --MICHAEL MRAZ

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