Men's Vogue > Style

Downtown Loafers

As classic as they are, I feel like there came a time in the last decade when (at least for some) loafers fell out of style -- too old-guard, too stiff, too conservative -- and there was the perfect replacement waiting in the wings: the driving shoe. As brilliantly popularized by Car Shoe, Hunting World, and of course Tod's, driving shoes are significantly more sporty and laid-back than their more formal and businesslike counterpart. They replaced loafers for every occasion -- for the office, for the weekend, for church. In fact I bought all our male family friends Tod's driving shoes in black patent leather with grosgrain details to wear with their tuxedos -- they were like an updated version of the black velvet evening slipper. But recently I've noticed the more formal loafer making a comeback, albeit in a more inventive new context. Perhaps inspired more by Michael Jackson's ironic embrace of loafers than the more predictable Wall Street types, many New Yorkers pair the formality of loafers with a more personalized look -- they wear them with scruffy jeans, beards, even Rasta caps. Who knew I'd be singing the praises of Michael Jackson two weeks in a row??

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Gary Cooper, with his wife, Sandra Shaw, wears his penny loafers in the most classic context. Southampton Beach Club, N.Y., 1945. (Photo: Getty)

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April 22, 2008

All Shoes on Deck

Somehow flip-flops have become an acceptable form of "mandal" for steamy weather, but I still know a large number of men who just won't go for open-toed shoes. What options does that leave for boating trips, beach excursions or even just walking around the city? Well, there are espadrilles, the canvas slip-ons with braided straw soles, and I know they might draw equal opposition. But hear me out, especially if you're an old-world kinda guy. I spent three summers of my late childhood in France, where espadrilles are what everyone—men and women—wear all summer, and I have vivid memories of my stepfather's well-worn version in navy blue. His clothes are always clean-cut, no-nonsense and accompanied by the coolest inherited accoutrements (a Breguet pocketwatch, diamond Cartier studs and countless engraved cufflinks are among his high-end hand-me-downs) and espadrilles fit right in with his style.

I had my doubts that I'd find any men at all wearing them on the streets of New York, but happily I came across quite a few, albeit in updated incarnations.  I saw canvas slip-ons, sans the braided sole, as well as Tom's shoes, whose proceeds help children-in-need get their own pair of Tom's. One breezy discovery was a crochet version of a slip-on, but you probably have to see them (below) to believe that they actually looked good.

At the other end of the summer shoe spectrum is what I have always called Top-Siders, or, as others may deem "boat shoes." In classic form-follows-function spirit, Paul Sperry designed Top-Siders in 1935 to keep you upright on the deck of a boat. Their boat-y relevance peaked in 1939, when the US Navy contracted Sperry to outfit thousands of sailors. And then in the sixties they resurfaced in abundance on college campuses. When I was Creative Director of Hogan, an Italian leather goods company, I was determined to re-invent the boat shoe and bring them back in fashion. The trouble was, they didn't need reinventing. So I just had to wait until the original makers like Sperry and Quoddy Trail in Maine realized what a classic they had and brought them back again. That moment has arrived.

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A Slim Aarons portrait of 70's TV actor (and old money Philadelphia WASP) Samuel Chew Jr. in red espadrilles. 1975. (credit: Getty Images)

 

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This guy's espadrilles came from Germany. He apologized for the socks, quite rightly so. Madison Avenue, NYC, August 2007.

 

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JFK with his sisters in 1939. He's really going for it with the ankle straps.

 

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My friend Kate Schelter sent me this photo of herself with Tom's founder Blake Mycoskie wearing their Tom's in Istanbul in July.

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My stepfather, Will Stewart, on one of our many summer trips to France in the 80's.

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A reluctant subject on his way to the gym. Before he ran away he dropped the name of a friend of mine at Vogue who told me that he is Diego Garcia, the lead singer of downtown rock band Elefant. Spring Street, NYC August 2007.

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James Mason, reading a script on the set of Julius Ceasar. 1952. (credit: Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images)

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These are the crochet slip-ons I was talking about above. Apparently they came from a Polish men's shoe shop in Brooklyn. I really like them. Bedford Avenue, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, August 2007.

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Sam Buffa. Again. He happens to live AND work on my block, and he's got great style. He's wearing boat shoes from Quoddy trailshoes, a family owned, handmade shoes company in Maine. Freeman Alley, NYC, August 2007.

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Ezzard Charles, heavyweight boxing champion of the world. 1950. (credit: Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images)

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I've been noticing top-siders in new and different colors, like white. Williamsburg, Brooklyn, July 2007.

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Famed Interior Decorator Albert Hadley in original Sperry Top-Siders. 1991. (credit: Getty Images)

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When Ned Martel (my editor at Men's Vogue) heard I was including topsiders in my blog he showed up to lunch proudly wearing these black ones. I also noticed that he was wearing wayfarers and a white seersucker shirt too. At least somebody is listening to me. Bryant Park, NYC, August 2007.

August 28, 2007
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