Testing Their Metal
In the 20th century, the jewelry that men wore seemed to change dramatically from decade to decade. Early on, such adornments seemed mostly contained (at least in first-world cultures) to discreet symbols of wealth and privilege--watch fobs, cufflinks, tuxedo studs--all worn in traditional contexts. The '50s then saw men experiment with ID bracelets and chains on their wallets; the '60s brought St. Christopher medallions out in force; it seems that the bigger and shinier the better was the attitude in the '70s (check out Fernand Legros in the matching large gold necklace and matching belt); and the '80s and '90s got us ready, with hip-hop chains and diamond studs, for the 21st-century focus on bling.
In this new century, therefore, anything goes. Today's spectrum ranges from dads wearing colorful, plastic bracelets lovingly made by their children to Britain's Prince Philip looking almost like a tribal warlord given the amount of medals he wears to a formal occasion. It seems to me that although jewelry will always be some kind of display of wealth and status, it is also a way to add some personal customization in an increasingly global world. And while I welcome rebels to run in all circles, just try to avoid using Jack Sparrow as your muse.
Paul Newman getting into the '50s feeling with his greaser haircut and a silver ID bracelet. 1956. (Credit: Getty)
This guy mixes expensive Cartier bracelets with a more mellow mix of braids and travel finds. Prince Street, NYC, June 2007.
Evel Knievel gets ready for bed in a NYC hotel room. Because of threats made to kidnap his children, he slept armed, with his valuables (including his chain bracelet and pendant necklace) close to him. Yikes! 1977. (Credit: Getty)
Do you think this guy's been wearing power beads since Ricky Martin made them popular in 1999? Or do you think he recently discovered them independently? Regardless, they add something unpredictable to the usual Rolex-worn-with-business-suit look. Bryant Park, NYC, September 2007.
Robert Plant experiments with the bohemian freedom of the late '60s by wearing a decorative ethnic bracelet. On the tour bus, 1969. (Credit: Getty)
Legendary jazz pianist and singer Fats Domino takes a first step into bling culture with a diamond-covered star-shaped watch. 1967. (Credit: Getty)
Two friends of mine bring contemporary audacity to old-school tuxedo studs at a formal party earlier this year. One pair are onyx with a diamond in each center, and the others are filled with diamonds and a single sapphire. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, NYC, May 2007.
This early 20th-century gentleman wore a pearl tie-pin that doesn't look remotely out of place. It would take a certain kind of man to wear a tie-pin today, but I wish someone would figure out how. 1920. (Credit: Getty)
Prince Philip (dancing with Queen Elizabeth II) in his full-on military getup at a state ball at the palace in Valetta during a royal visit to Malta. 1967. (Credit: Getty)
I LOVE the Elvis lapel pin. The charms on the chain necklace are nice too. New York City, 1975. (Credit: Getty)
My friend Charles wears a Russian cross, perhaps inspired by his Russian wife? West 42nd Street, NYC, May 2007.
Rocky Balboa gets religious before a fight. 1980. (Credit: Getty)
This guy's groovy '70s medallion look so reminds me of the photos of African photographer Malick Sidibé. If you haven't seen his book you are missing out on some of the greatest interpretations of men's clothes there are. North 5th Street, Brooklyn, August 2007.
Roger Moore (aka James Bond) sports only a religious medallion while enjoying breakfast in bed. 1973. (Credit: Getty)
Art dealer Fernand Legros gives rappers an early-day run for their money with the contemporary bling-and-Rolls-Royce combo. 1972. (Credit: Getty)
This guy's feather pendant shows a softer, more hippy side than the rugged cowboy shirt suggests. Bedford Avenue, Brooklyn, August 2007.
Big game hunter Bunny Allen (he looks more like a pirate to me) wears the teeth of a leopard, which once attacked him. For the record: I am NOT a supporter of game hunters. I like his necklace though. Lamu, Kenya, 1987. (Credit: Getty)
A black cord can be a good solution for guys who don't want to flash too much metal. Mott Street, NYC, June 2007.
A purely traditional approach to jewelry-wearing, but it's personalized, so it's special. Spring Street, NYC, June 2007.
The Presidential Cobalt cufflinks are among the rarest and most sought after from each Presidency, handed out by the Chief Executive himself. On the back of these cufflinks is the signature of President George W. Bush. I like the formality and tradition of these, but I certainly wouldn't want to be given them by you-know-who. (Credit: Corbis)
Skulls seem to be everywhere I look these days, so when I saw this picture of Keith Richards, I rolled my eyes and thought, "Why is he jumping on that bandwagon?" I was relieved to look at the date the picture was taken in 1990. Keef was always ahead of his time. (Credit: Getty)
Walter Cronkite wears what looks like a school ring on his right hand. The school/sports-team ring seems to have gone by the wayside for the moment, but perhaps bears some reconsideration. 1985. (Credit: Getty)
I've always liked rings worn on many fingers. It's clearly not a look for most guys, but it works on this one. Brooklyn, NY, September 2007.
Sofa!
I think men's metal accessories should be simple in shape and cool in color.I like Danish jewellery brand Dyrberg/Kern very much.The designer mixes the metal and leather perfectly in their men's accessories.Luxe but not bling,I think that's the essence for a man to choose his metal accessories.Just make sure you look more maculin and ,well, elegant.