Men's Vogue > Style

In Living Color

There's one thing that might finally topple the so-called rules of seasonal dressing: global warming. I'm already beginning to notice the absurdity of men feeling like they can't wear white or linen or shorts after Labor Day when it's 80 degrees out in late October. And while the dictators of convention may not be ready to make an official change in the etiquette book, I like the idea of men prolonging summer in their wardrobe (or maybe getting an early start on spring?) by wearing unseasonably bright colors.

A lavender sweater, for example, has a different feeling when worn in June than it does in October. The common perception is that if you're wearing bright colors in warm weather, then you are joining the masses, becoming part of the norm. It seems like a bigger commitment, however, to wear, say, red pants on Madison Avenue after Labor Day. Did someone say dandy? I hesitate to label it that way because--while there's nothing wrong with being a dandy if that suits your style--there is a way to be colorful in the later months of the year without feeling like a peacock.

The most obvious way to wear color off-season is to add just a hint of it--an emerald-green pocket square, a duck-egg-blue tie, or if you're a free-spirited artist like David Hockney, even two different colored shoes! The men who wear full-on jolts of color--a tangerine sweater or a fire-engine-red military coat--look best when the rest of their outfit is toned down and neutral. Mind you, there is the rare exception, like the sixties image of English photographer Patrick Lichfield looking confident and enviable in a purple shirt with canary-yellow pinstripe pants. But take on looks like that with caution--even if you're dressing for springtime at Thanksgiving, you still don't want to look like an Easter egg.

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The shopkeeper at Richard James in London (my favorite men's store) knows how to wear intense color to his advantage. Savile Row, June 2007.

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I love seventies pictures of the British royal family--obviously the Windsors were never trendy, but a laid-back vibe seems to have seeped in. Note the longer hair and the orange sweater. 1978. (Getty Images)

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My friend Carlos Mota, in color coordination with my daughter Coco's riding chaps. Oxfordshire, England, 2007.

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Charles Dana, the founder of the Lyford Cay Club in the Bahamas, in a preppy linen blazer. 1983. (Getty Images)

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This Ralph Lauren employee would look pretty run-of-the-mill without that pop of emerald. East Fifty-ninth Street, NYC, October 2007.

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British one-hit wonder Whistling Jack Smith wears a recycled bright red military jacket. The cloudy fall weather makes a good backdrop for the intense color. 1967. (Getty Images)

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Before he brought the world Cosby sweaters, Bill Cosby fought the winter gloom with a yellow turtleneck. 1966  (Getty Images)

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Have you noticed that I have a thing for dark-skinned guys wearing bright colors? On a white guy this outfit would be too preppy for my tastes, but this guy's interpretation of color, proportion and attitude makes me a fan of the whole package. Madison Avenue, NYC, October 2007.

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This guy does a whole other thing with red pants--to equally strong effect. Williamsburg, Brooklyn, June 2007.

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British-born painter David Hockney in his trademark mismatched shoes. The guy behind him in red pants looks great too. 1980. (Getty Images)

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This guy has a good combination going on--the colors are bright but they're not screaming at me. Also, I've been noticing men wearing their ties shorter and shorter recently. What's that about? I'm not complaining. Spring Street, NY, October 2007.

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The amazingly stylish sixties and seventies supermodel Twiggy is followed here by her equally stylish manager and then-boyfriend Justin De Villeneuve. He manages to suggest a Nantucket tradition in a laid-back, not-taking-it-so-seriously way. 1970. (Getty Images)

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Sometimes wearing a less obvious color, like the tangerine linen shirt my stepfather, Will, is wearing here, works to great effect. Wainscott, NY, October 2007.

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I'm not suggesting that you make like James Brown and wear a pink shiny cape--but I do like the example of how great adding a flash of color can be. 1969. (Getty Images)

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 I would never have thought this guy's look was remarkable without the green pocket square. Broadway, NY, October 2007.

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Douglas Fairbanks, Jr., looking great in not one but two loud colors. It helps that the blue shirt matches his eyes. 1967. (Getty Images)

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I have to admit to you that this guy had knee socks on below his cut-off green shorts. I'm just pretending I didn't see them because this part of him looks great. Brooklyn, NY, October 2007.

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If I momentarily suspend my attraction to Neil Armstrong's good looks and awesome feats, I notice how much I like the simplicity of his red cap.  Houston, Texas 1969. (Getty Images)

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British society photographer Patrick Lichfield looks contemporary in this picture. I would never have thought a man could pull off a lavender shirt with yellow pants. But he does. That's the amazing thing about having your own style--when you believe in it you can do things that no one else can.  Port Ercole, 1968.  (Getty Images)





November 05, 2007

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