In case you couldn't tell from my previous blogs, I have an obsessive habit of looking through vintage photos online. For me there's no greater thrill than looking through 67 pages of, say, run-of the-mill men in tuxedos when something out of the ordinary stops me -- jeweled studs! -- and speaks volumes about personal style.

So the other day I was walking on Madison Avenue, looking out for men who catch my eye, and I noticed in retrospect that I didn't clock any men wearing ties. I do like men in ties -- a lot -- but I wasn't really feeling it from the men I saw that day. So when I got home I went looking for inspiration online and did a men-in-ties search from 1940 to 1985. Looking through my selections, I was far more interested in the men who clearly wore ties by choice, as opposed to obligation or convention. Musicians like Bryan Ferry and Mick Jones, screen legend Michael Caine, sixties photographer David Bailey -- they all wore uncompulsory ties to great effect. These men had no real reason to be wearing a tie other than choice, and this choice alone brought something different and more personal to their look. A tie worn under a sweater, or with no jacket and rolled-up shirt sleeves, or even just a tie with a loose knot, all looked exciting to me.

Conversely, I also feel something for a guy who is a proper, devout tie wearer and wears one regardless of his location or situation. Coming out of my apartment the other evening, I saw a very attractive and elegantly dressed older man standing outside The Box, a scandalous dinner theater on my block that is more known for local Lower East Side hipsters than Upper East Side patriarchs. I asked a friend and learned that he was Lewis Lapham, former longtime editor of Harper's magazine. Even though his tie-wearing surely stemmed from convention, he certainly didn't need to be wearing one on Chrystie Street, no matter the occasion. Lewis Lapham is a rare bird, and hopefully not a dying breed.

 

I didn't get the chance to ask this guy where he was going but, judging from where this photo was taken (just outside the Ralph Lauren offices), I'd be willing to bet that he works there. He looks the part entirely -- to great effect, mind you. Madison Avenue, NYC, July 2007.

Filmmaker Wes Anderson looking rather underdressed in a tie at a film premiere in 2003.  (Getty Images, March 6, 2003.)

This picture from the eighties of Bryan Ferry's casually-worn tie gave me the idea for this blog.  (Lynn Goldsmith/Corbis, 1980s.)

A tie with jeans and sneakers can be scary, but this guy pulls it off by keeping it simple and clean. SoHo, NYC, July 2007.

Topper Headon of the Clash helped the uncompulsary tie become an iconic rock star look. 1980s.  (Getty Images, January 1, 1980.)

The American rock band, The Byrds, 1970. (Getty Images, January 1, 1968.)

A friend, set designer Sebastien Sergeant,who lives across the street from me. Forsythe Street, NYC, May 2007.

A white shirt and black tie and oversized sunglasses became legendary actor Michael Caine's signature sixties look.  (Getty Images, May 14, 1965.)

I love the Army jacket over the shirt and tie. The Automat, London, June 2007.

English fashion photographer David Bailey, 1967.  (Getty Images, May 14, 1965.)

Lewis Laphan outside The Box. Chrystie Street, NYC, June 2007.